20251218 Japan, Takayama to Hakaba

After the devastating 2011 tsunami, Japan rebuilt with massive coastal defenses. They created the 395 km Great Tsunami Wall, reaching up to 14.7 metres high and 25 metres deep in some areas. Japan also planted 9 million trees to form the Great Forest Wall, helping slow waves and trap debris.

20251218 Unfortunately our time in Takayama has come to an end as we pack the car and pile in to head to our next destination, Hakaba, a renowned ski resort. We hit the coast passing Kurobe when we spotted a tsunami wall that stretches for hundreds of kilometer long the Tohoku coast. Passing the Onashirazu Cliff and turned off at Itocgawa Ono for a quick visit to the 7 Eleven. Back on the road again we follow the Himekawa River through many tunnels. The tunnels are great only you miss a lot of sites along the way but Phil’s, perspective is, it’s better than a landslide falling on us. The mountains tops covered in snow appear in the distance as we edge closer to the town of Hakaba, it’s so pretty. As we walk into our accomodation the room was filled with the warmth of the fire thanks to the owner. Once we retrieved our suit cases and picked our rooms Hamish and Owen hit the snow.

Wow! Check out this construction, now this I wish we could have seen.

The Cliffs of Oyashirazu, once considered the most dangerous part of the Hokuriku Road, where travellers squeezed between steep cliffs and rough seas. Known as “Tenka no Ken” — “The Most Dangerous Crossing Under Heaven”, the area later gained a narrow road in the late 1800s. Today, the old route is a scenic walking trail called the Oyashirazu Community Road.

After a 4 hour trip the boys were ready for a rumble in the snow, so they built a snow ring to slide through, very inventive boys.

Our road trip from Takayama to Hakaba

Sharyn and I made a daring escape to the grocery store in search of supplies (and possibly sanity). After a combined effort at decoding the language — part guessing game, part interpretive dance — we filled our trolley like seasoned pros and rolled up to the checkout… which is nothing like back home. 

Here, a checkout girl scans your items, then you’re politely shuffled along to another counter to pay, like some kind of supermarket relay race. With a bit of pointing, smiling, and universal sign language — and a few hundred dollars later — we headed home to unpack. Honestly, feeding these boys is like stocking a small nation… they’re a bottomless pit!

The Christmas decoration are on display as I stroll the streets, this was actually just next door. 

Merry Christmas to all, see ya on the 25th.

20251219 Their first day on the slopes — fingers crossed for soft, fluffy snow instead of the face-plant variety. After the usual round of nagging (and what felt like a full negotiation process), the boys finally wriggled into their snow gear and headed off full of excitement. Meanwhile, Grandma stayed back with Ash, who — true to form — decided to get properly, spectacularly sick just before we arrived in Hakuba… exactly like last time. Honestly, what are the odds? You couldn’t plan that level of timing if you tried!

Sharyn models her padded snow pants with the built-in booty armour—because gravity and ice, you just don’t mess with. She then turns sideways and does a little dance while showing off her butt pants, she’s such a nutter.

There they go up the slopes in the chair lift, have fun guys.

Hamish and Dad hit the slopes — and seeing as Dad’s been snowboarding since dinosaurs roamed the earth (or at least that’s what he’d have you believe), Hamish definitely has some serious competition. But credit where it’s due — he’s getting better with every trip, chasing Dad down the mountain and keeping him on his toes… or at least trying to keep up without eating too much snow!

Mum and the little turd, Owie, teamed up to brave the chairlift, sitting patiently (well… mostly) as they waited to be whisked up to the top of the slopes. There’s nothing quite like dangling above the snow with a tiny sidekick — equal parts bonding moment and mild survival exercise!

20251222 This totally brought back memories of Guy Fawkes nights in the ’60s and ’70s, when bonfires roared and fireworks made the sky scream — and us kids couldn’t get enough of it. So, of course, when we spotted fireworks at the local store, the inner pyromaniacs in us took over. I’m sure we convinced ourselves it was for the boys’ benefit… but really, it was mostly for us!

Guy Fawkes night in Hakaba

Phil cooks up his last feed as Sharyn and I prepair for a nice soak in an Onsen then dinner leaving the rest of the crew in their Dads hands.

Now that’s what I call a big sausage, but it’s actually a Boerewors, a traditional South African sausage made from a mixture of beef, pork, and spices, and I have no idea how it tastes because there is no way I’m eating that.

BRING ON THE ONSEN

20251217 Japan Shirakawa-go's,

20251217 We all piled into the car for a 45-minute drive to visit the historic town of Shirakawa-go. Its history centres on a unique, isolated mountain way of life that led to the development of the distinctive gasshō-zukuri style of architecture—meaning “constructed like praying hands.” This building style first appeared in historical records around 1176, with evidence of human life in the region dating back between 7000 BC and 2300 BC. What an incredible village, one that has held onto its traditions along with its communal living and farming practices, which led to its World Heritage status in 1995. Since then, the village has been protected under a strict “no sell, no rent, no destroy” policy to preserve its centuries-old character and communal spirit. Shirakawa-go is surrounded by the Hida Mountains to the east and southeast, and the Ryōhaku Mountains to the west and southwest—a volcanic mountain range that includes Mount Hakusan, one of Japan’s Three Sacred Mountains. Mount Hakusan, in particular, has a strong influence on the climate and culture of Shirakawa-go. It blows my mind to think about the craftsmanship that went into these homes over 850 years ago.

After a lot of nagging we managed to get the eldest son Ash, to have a family photo, miracles do happen, but don’t push it with a smile.

These constructions are so unique it really give you a true image of how the Japanese lived around 1176 and still are.

We walk around the village taking in the extraordinary constructions, these, A-frame structures are built without nails and feature large attic spaces used for silkworm cultivation, carpentry, and family living. It still blows my mind that not one nail was used in their construction.

Sharyn standing under one of the very thick roofs made of thick, steeply pitched thatch (grass), specifically a type of miscanthus (genus of tall, perennial grasses) called kariyasu, that roof would definitely keep the snow out.

One of the many stone-lined canals that were built using traditional methods of hand-laid stones, often rounded riverbed stones, sometimes with mud/gravel bases for stability.

The Deai Bridge (Meeting Bridge), the main pedestrian suspension bridge leading into the village of Shirakawa-go.

A traditional Japanese wooden water channel that’s part of a historic water system.

Known as "power stones" or banmochiishi were historically used for strength competitions within the village, the goal was to see who was the strongest person in the community by lifting them.

Fresh water, there’s nothing better.

Owen showing off his new toy samurai sword, not that you can see it very well.

Grandma and her two ratbag grandsons, Hamish and Owen.

Hamish checks out the Shinto shrines (jinja) a structures built to house (enshrine) one or more kami, which are the Shinto, a god or goddess or spirits and that’s Ash lurking in the background.

The sign display's a lodging establishment named Kanjiya.

This traditional method lets the rice dry naturally in the sun and air, a practice that’s becoming rare in modern, mechanised Japan.

Inside, the homes have large attic spaces for silkworm cultivation, carpentry, and family use.

A homemade wooden scarecrow-like sculpture made from aged, weathered wood. It has a round wooden face painted with a simple, slightly sad expression, and a flat 

T-shaped body marked with small holes, possibly from use as a target and much different than ours in Australia.

Our adventure continues as we climb deeper into the forest to check out the tiny homes while stepping over the mounds of snow that’s slowly melting around us.

Sharyn and I sneak in one of the local Ice Cream, while the boys are off with their Dad. Yummy 😋

Hamish checking out a waterway with lots of rainbow trout, all we need is a fishing line.

A street view inside the village reveals just how carefully it’s looked after—every surface spotless, with not a single piece of rubbish to be seen.

Be ware of the bears 🐻, these signs are scattered around the village and apparently there have been quite a lot of attacks.

These channels slip quietly past the village homes, carrying water so pure and glass-clear it seems made for drinking.

I found this photo of Shirakawa-go village during its magical winter light-up which looks like something straight out of a fairy tale… or possibly a very well-organised Smurf village.

I could have spent hours exploring but we have three impatient children who just aren’t into the history of this amazing village like their Mum and I so, home it is.

Phil takes the rains driving following the Tokai Hokurfku Expy (Toll road) and this is just one of many we passed through.

Out of the Hida-Kauai tunnel and into another and another, they just go on and on.

Back Home To Takayama 

20240216 Shiga Kogen, Snow Monkeys

20240216 It snowed last night so Sharyn and Phil were up early and excited that's there was fresh snow or powder as they call it on the Mountain so I dropped them off early and they were lucky enough to be the first ones at the Gondola. 

Up they go for a great day on a mountain full of powder only to return very disappointed because the snow had turned to ice and it was too dangerous to play on.

I was just about to leave to drop the boys off at their ski school when I received a call from a not so happy Sharyn, apparently after it snowed last night, we also had a bit of rain that has turned the snow to ice making its much too dangerous to snow board. The boys we not happy but neither were Mum and Dad so we decided to do a day trip to check out the Snow Monkeys.

I have know idea how many tolls we passed through but they seemed endless and certainly not cheap.

Hakuba to Yamanouchi, Japanese toll roads are some of the most expensive in the world. As of 2022, the average price per kilometre was ¥24.6, for a standard single car.

We noticed many of these dead looking trees on our travels through Japan and found out they are apple trees. Aomori-made apples are most produced and cultivated in Japan and this has not changed for more than 100 years.

We finally arrived at the Shiga Kogen foothills along the Yokoyu River where lies Jigokudani, or Hell's Valley and the only place in the world where monkeys bathe in hot springs, now for the long walk to the top.

The family take the lead leaving Grandma lagging in the background, I refuse to go arse over. 

Our walk to the top, about 1.6 km around winding ice covered, not to mention very slippery roads so it was a slow cautious walk to the top, well for me at least.

Hamish and Owen pause for a photo.

Owen hangs back to help Grandma just in case she slips over.

A much needed rest stop lined with much information of the area we are entering.

Korakukan, a historic inn established in 1864 and where Guests can share their outdoor hot spring bath with the monkeys.

Are we their yet, as we take a right turn to now climb a heap of stairs, my pet hate.

A Map of the surrounding area only it's all in Japanese.

A palm leaf covered in snow.

This would be my cheeky grandson loving the snow.

It was safer to walk in the mud than on the actually path.

Are We There Yet

20240213 Iimori Snow Boarding & Ski Resort

20240213 Today the boys are booked into snowboarding lessons with English speaking trainers, so it's off to Iimori Resort where at the bottom is flat and wide for all to learn relativly ease. There are 6 different ability levels to choose from as well as night skiing at the bottom on the Toomi section so beginners can practice in the evening as well. Unfortunetly Ash has the flu and is too sick to ski so he stays home and spend some grandma and grandson time, if I can get him off his bloody iPad.

I managed to get Ash out of the house and off his iPad for a walk along the ice-covered roads within our area.

My cheeky grandson try's his best to give his Grandma a hard time, as he does but I'm always one step ahead of him.

All dressed and ready to take on the Iimori Goryu slopes, man I wish I could sky.

Iimori Goryu Snow Resort Hakuba is a popular resort named Goryu (5 Dragons) because of the resemblance the rugged peaks of the Japanese Alps have to that of the mighty mythical beasts, well I'm not so sure about that.😕

Hamish and Owen take to the snow for their first lesson on how to snowboard and are quick to pick up the skills, kids are just so resiliant.

After a few quick lessons the boys and their trainer head up in the chairlift to try their luck on the slopes.

Full of confidence after his lessons, Hamish heads up the chair left with his Mum to show off his new skills.

And here they come, Mum and son skiing down the slop's together.

Owen shows off as he learns some new tricks until he lands on his behind but he's quick to recover.

The Winter Ice Sculpture are so cool.

Their are many interesting Ice Sculpture's found around the snow fields.

Down the slopes come's Dad and Son.

Someone is looking awfully confident and after only a few lessons, well done Hamish.

Sharyn taking some time out on the ski slops.

The people you run into on the slopes, Shelly and Sharyn, friends for ever.

Egyptian Pharaoh on the ice, sharyn took this one on top of the moutain.

The End